Plaza Mayor and Plaza San MartinA long pedestrian street crowded with shoppers,
vendors and sightseers connects Lima's two main plazas to each
other. The heart of the old town is centred on the striking Plaza
Mayor, or Plaza de Armas, gracefully colonial with its bronze
fountain and old street lamps. It was once the central marketplace,
where bullfights were held during Spanish rule. Surrounding the
square are several notable buildings, including the grand Spanish
Baroque Cathedral, occupying the site of an ancient Inca temple and
housing the Museum of Religious Art and Treasures; the impressive
Government Palace where the changing of the guard takes place; the
Town Hall; and the Archbishop's Palace sporting a beautiful wooden
balcony. The Plaza San Martin is an impressive square with a hive
of activity surrounding its central fountains; a busy area of
shoe-shiners, soapbox speakers, street artists and the site for
political rallies and rioting workers.Museo de la Nación (National Museum)The superb anthropological and archaeological National
Museum contains excellent exhibits tracing the history of Peru's
ancient civilisations and provides an outstanding overview of the
archaeological richness of the country. It is the city's largest
and the country's most important museum and the chronological
layout guides visitors easily through the complicated ancient
history, highlighting the many conquering cultures and their
achievements, from the art and history of the original inhabitants
to the Inca Empire.Museo de Oro del Peru (Gold Museum)Housed in a fortress-like building are the safe-rooms
crammed with treasures from the Inca civilisation and their
predecessors. The massive collection of gleaming gold, ceremonial
objects and jewellery compete for attention, and the famous golden
Tumi, the symbol of Peru, has been exhibited around the world. The
rest of the museum is just as interesting with thousands of
exquisite tapestries, pre-Incan weapons and wooden staffs, masks,
mummies, and clothing. There is also a vast display of antique
weapons and uniforms, a reminder of Peru's violent
past.Museo Rafael Larco HerreraThe 18th century colonial-style museum houses the
largest and most impressive ceramic collection in the world, with
about 55,000 pre-Colombian clay pots on display. The collection
concentrates on the refined ceramics of the Moche Dynasty, the
people who lived along the northern coast of Peru between 200 and
700 AD. The Moche culture is recognized as accomplishing one of the
greatest imaginative languages of ancient Peru through the use of
creative pottery, providing clues to all aspects of their
civilization without the use of the written word. One can learn
about their religion, agriculture, transport, dance and music
through their ceramic designs and shapes. The Moche are also
renowned for their fascinating erotic pottery and the famous
collection is on display in the separate 'Erotic Hall', depicting
sexual practices of several Peruvian cultures in a lifelike,
explicit and often humorous way.Church of San FranciscoThe most spectacular of Lima's colonial churches, San
Francisco is a striking white and yellow building with twin towers
and a stone façade. It was one of the few buildings to survive the
devastation of the 1746 earthquake and is famous for its
underground catacombs that contain the bones and skulls of an
estimated 70,000 people. The interior of the church has arches and
columns decorated with beautiful mosaic tiles and an exquisitely
carved Moorish-style wooden ceiling above the staircase leading to
the cloisters. The church also contains a superb 17th century
library with thousands of antique texts and a room containing
painted masterpieces by Reubens, Van Dyck and
Jordaens.PiscoPisco is a small port and fishing village, best known
for its fiery white grape brandy of the same name. It also boasts
the origins of one of the major ancient civilisations in Peru, the
Paracas culture, who left an astounding collection of antiquities
that are displayed in the museums of Lima. The area is primarily
visited as a base to see the wildlife of the nearby Paracas
National Reserve, home to an incredible variety and huge
concentration of marine animals and birds. Locals proudly proclaim
it to be the 'Peruvian Galapagos', and the main focus of a visit to
the reserve is a boat tour of the Ballestas Islands. The islands
are off limits to people but the boat tours afford spectacular
close up views of the wildlife. The rocks are alive with thousands
of migratory and resident sea birds, including pelicans, flamingos,
penguins, cormorants, red boobies and terns. Huge colonies of
barking sea lions line the shores, and turtles, dolphins and
sometimes whales are seen in the surrounding waters. En route to
the islands boats pass the famous Candelabra, a gigantic
trident-shaped drawing etched into the sandstone cliffs overlooking
the bay, and like the drawings at Nazca, its origins remain a
mystery.NazcaNazca is a small desert town, named for the Nazca
civilisation that came after the Paracas culture, and it is a major
attraction due to the mysterious presence of the lines and diagrams
etched into the surrounding desert floor. It also has some
interesting museums and archaeological sites, including the
Chauchilla Cemetery, with 12 exposed underground tombs containing
skeletons and preserved mummified forms. The main attraction of the
town is an aerial flight over the Nazca Lines that are spread over
miles of the vast desert floor. The dimensions of these enormous
figures, geometric designs, spirals and perfectly straight lines
are so large that the only way to view them is from the air and
pilots will point out the outlines of intriguing bird and animal
representations such as the hummingbird, monkey, condor, spider,
and the unusual cartoon-like character known as the Astronaut.
These figures were made by removing sun-darkened stones from the
desert floor to expose the lighter coloured stones below, and were
created over a thousand years ago. Theories abound regarding the
mysterious desert etchings, and questions as to why they were
created, how they were designed and what technology was used,
remain unanswered and have puzzled experts for centuries. The Nazca
Lines are among the most unforgettable and strangest sights in the
country, an extraordinary legacy left by the ancient people of the
Nazca culture, and one of the great mysteries of South
America.Plaza de ArmasThe graceful main square, Plaza de Armas, is lined
with colonial-style covered walkways and houses that contain
souvenir shops, restaurants, bars and travel agencies. The large
Cathedral is the most prominent structure overlooking the square
and is adjoined to a church on either side, the Iglesia Jesus María
and Iglesia El Triunfo. Inside is the elaborately carved wooden
altar, covered in gold and silver plate, and the carved wooden
choir stalls that are acclaimed to be the finest in the country.
Also of interest is the painting The Last Supper, which portrays
Jesus and his disciples gathered around the table, on which a
central platter of the local Inca delicacy, 'cuy' or roasted guinea
pig, is placed. Also on the plaza is La Compañía, one of Cuzco's
most ornately decorated churches, often floodlit at night. The
streets and alleys around the plaza are filled with colour and
bustling handicraft stalls. The historic pedestrian alleyway of
Loreto, leading away from the plaza, is lined with Inca stone
walls.Coricancha Inca RuinsCoricancha is a Quechua word meaning 'Golden
Courtyard', but the Inca stonework is all that remains of the
ancient Temple of the Sun, which was the most important temple in
the Inca Empire, dedicated primarily to Inti, the Sun God. The
walls and floors were once covered in sheets of solid gold, and the
courtyard was filled with golden statues. Spanish reports tell of
its opulence that was 'fabulous beyond belief'. The Church of Santo
Domingo was built on the site, using the ruined foundations of the
temple that was flattened by the gold-hungry Spanish in the 17th
century, and is a fine example of where Inca stonework has been
incorporated into the structure of a colonial building. Major
earthquakes have severely damaged the church, but the Inca stone
walls, built out of huge, tightly-interlocking blocks of stone,
still stand as a testimony to their superb architectural skills and
sophisticated stone masonry. Nearby is an underground
archaeological site museum containing a number of interesting
pieces, including mummies, textiles and sacred idols.SacsayhuamánOf the four ruins near Cuzco, Sacsayhuamán is the
closest and the most remarkable. Its proximity to Cuzco and the
dimensions of its stones caused it to be used as a quarry by the
Spanish conquistadors, providing building material for their
colonial buildings in the city below. The complex suffered such
destruction by the Spanish conquistadors that little is known about
the actual purpose these magnificent buildings served, but it is
usually referred to as a fortress, constructed with high,
impenetrable walls, although it is also believed to have been a
ceremonial or religious centre. The ruins cover an enormous area,
but only about 20 percent of the original complex remains and are a
fine example of extraordinary Inca stone masonry. It is estimated
the complex took 100 years to build, using thousands of men in its
construction, the massive blocks of stone fitting together
perfectly without the aid of mortar, one weighing over 300 tonnes
and standing 16ft (5m) tall. The magnificent centre was the site of
the infamous bloody battle between the Spanish and the Inca people
in 1536 that left thousands of the native people dead, providing
food for the circling condors, and ever since the Cuzco Coat of
Arms has featured eight condors in memory of the event. Today it
holds the annual celebrations of Cuzco's most important festival,
Inti Raymi, the sun festival, a spectacular and colourful affair
that re-enacts the Inca winter solstice festival every
June.The Sacred Valley (Urubamba River Valley)Known as the Sacred Valley of the Incas, this fertile
valley of breathtaking beauty, stretching between the villages of
Pisac and Ollantaytambo, is coursed by the winding Urubamba River,
watched over by ancient Inca ruins perched high on the hilltops
above, and sprinkled with little traditional settlements in
between. Centrally situated Urubamba has the most tourist
infrastructure and is becoming a popular base from which to explore
the valley. The most well known sites are the citadel above Pisac
and the fortress of Ollantaytambo, which receive the most visitors.
The quaint village of Pisac is known for its interesting Tuesday,
Thursday and Sunday morning markets, while overlooking the village
are the ruins of the citadel, with its fine stonework and panoramic
views over the valley. Agricultural terraces flank the steep sides
of the mountain and have been in use for many centuries, and above
them the alarmingly narrow trails that lead to the citadel hug the
cliffs, with massive stone doorways, and steep stairways cut into
the rock or a rock-hewn tunnel forming the only passageway between
the sheer drop below and the vertical slopes above. At the far end
of the Sacred Valley, the road terminates at the ancient
traditional town of Ollantaytambo, where the temple-fortress clings
to the nearby cliffs. Developed as an Inca administrative centre,
the town's layout is one of the few remaining models of an Inca
grid plan and the existing town is built on the remaining Inca
foundations. The ruins include the Temple of the Sun, the Royal
Chamber and the Princess' Baths. From the town the road leads to
the start of the illustrious Inca Trail.Machu PicchuThe ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu is regarded
as the most significant archaeological site in South America and
one of the finest examples of landscape architecture in the world.
Nestled high in the towering Andes Mountains on a saddle between
two peaks is this most spectacular and enthralling of Inca
citadels, 'The Lost City of the Incas'. Totally concealed from
below it escaped destruction by the Spanish, and was only
discovered by the western world in 1911 when an American explorer
stumbled across the thickly overgrown ruins in their majestic
setting high in the clouds. Surrounded by steep agricultural
terraces and grazing llamas, the ruins consist of a central plaza,
a sacred ceremonial area with intricately carved temples and royal
tombs, palaces, stairways and perfectly balanced archways, towers,
food storehouses, ornate fountains and water canals. Highlights of
the site include one of the most famous Inca constructions, the
sacred Temple of the Sun, with its distinctive round tapering tower
and the centre stone that is illuminated by the rays of the sun
every winter solstice. Huayna Picchu forms a dramatic backdrop to
the city and a treacherously steep stone trail leads to a platform
offering dizzy views of the city below and a sweeping panorama of
the surrounding mountains and forests. Despite the continuous
hordes of tourists the ancient Inca citadel preserves its sense of
mystery and majesty, especially in the quieter hours after sunrise
and before sunset, when the light and wispy strands of mist create
an aura of isolated majesty.Santa Catalina MonasteryEnclosed within high walls is the Santa Catalina
Monastery, an enormous complex of rooms, pretty little plazas and
ornate fountains, a maze of narrow cobbled streets, chapels,
beautifully decorated archways and boxes of red geraniums. The
thick and brightly painted walls contain numerous cells that once
housed over 200 members of the female nobility who chose to shut
themselves away from the rest of the world in a life devoted
entirely to prayer. Some 400 years later the monastery was opened
to the world and since then visitors have been able to wander
through the exquisitely finished gates and admire the valuable
collection of some of the finest examples of existing Spanish
American religious art that decorate the walls. Today, about 30
resident nuns live out of sight in the northern part of the
complex. Noteworthy is the Orange Tree Cloister, painted a sky-blue
with beautiful murals decorating the vaulted arches, as well as the
huge 17th-century kitchen with its blackened walls, and the long
and narrow street known as Calle Toledo, which is the oldest part
of the monastery and leads to the open air laundry where the nuns
washed their clothes in large jugs filled from the canal. Unlike
any other church compound, Santa Catalina is a masterpiece of
colonial architecture, and is the most fascinating religious
complex in Peru.Museo Santuarios Andinos (Museum of Andean
Sanctuaries)The small museum's most famous attraction is the 600
year old frozen body of Juanita, the young Inca girl who was
discovered in near perfect condition on top of the Ampato Volcano
in 1995. She was killed as a sacrificial offering to the mountain
gods and buried in a tomb with a number of funeral offerings that
are also on display in the museum, along with other ice mummies
found on the mountain. The body had been encased in ice and
preserved by the freezing temperatures on the 20,000ft (6,000m)
peak for hundreds of years, and was found after a volcanic eruption
melted the ice and exposed the tomb. The Ice Maiden is displayed in
a refrigerated glass case, and analysis of her DNA has afforded
great insights into the Inca culture. An interesting video
documents the discovery and is included as part of the compulsory
tour.The Colca CanyonThe most popular excursion from Arequipa is to the
Colca Canyon, one of the deepest canyons in the world, and twice
the depth of Arizona's Grand Canyon. The Colca valley is extremely
picturesque, dominated by huge mountains, with little villages and
a distinctive traditional dress, lively market places and grand
churches, green agricultural terraces hugging the hillsides and
herds of wandering llamas. The Crux del Condor Lookout is the most
popular viewing point and also the best place to see giant condors
soaring on incredible wingspans above the dramatic depths of the
canyon below. Many people stay in the quaint market town of Chivay,
three hours from Arequipa, with a good range of accommodation,
restaurants and bus services, and an excellent base from which to
explore the region at leisure. There are many hiking opportunities
in the surrounding hills and energetic travellers can hike down to
the bottom of the canyon and overnight in one of the tiny Indian
settlements below.
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